|
I didn’t interview Michel Roux
Jr for the reasons you might think of: the same country
of origin as mine or the same passion for sport and running
I share with him. No, the main reason was that I really wanted
to know more about the man who runs one of
the most prestigious restaurant in London awarded 2 Michelin
Stars, and also the son of the famous Albert Roux, who, with
his brother Michel, established Le
Gavroche as the first true French gastronomic restaurant
which received 3 Michelin Stars in England back in 1982.
I
wanted to know what it would have been to have lived his fascinating
life. I am talking about the very difficult and demanding
steps needed to become a chef, as an apprentice first
and then all the training he did in many restaurants before
taking over the family business as head chef. Michel Roux Jr
is a simple man, with no gimmicks, like his
food.He is faithful to the finest ingredients cooked
to perfection. And he had the generosity to
provide me with half an hour of his time on a sunny but very
cold morning of March…
Olivier
Bourseau: Good morning Michel,
thank you very much for having us at le Gavroche for this interview.
It is a great honour for me to speak to you. You have dedicated
you life to food, or at least your career. You started gaining
your apprenticeship with a Maitre Patissier back in 1976, you
were 16. Did you know by then that you would become a chef and
did you have the passion already?
Michel Roux Jr:
The passion already yes of course! I was almost born in a kitchen
and that’s fact, so I have always been in a kitchen environment.
I had the passion and the desire but I didn’t know which
path life would take. I think at that age you don’t know
for sure where you are going to end up. And so although I knew
that I wanted to do something in the industry, whether it is
a pastry chef, or in the kitchen, or something to do with the
wine or whatever the business, I knew that I would end up somewhere
in the business.
Below is Michel Roux
Jr in the kitchen of Le Gavroche, right after our interview.

Olivier Bourseau:
Coming from such a great family of cooks (your Father and Uncle
Albert and Michel Roux) must have been a fantastic thing in
terms of inspiration and eating an amazing food at home. How
was the atmosphere at home during family meals and were your
father and uncle talking about their business much?
Michel Roux Jr:
My mother used to cook at home for the family and she is a very
good cook but as a youngster, as a child I obviously didn’t
see my father very much because he was at work most of the time
and very busy. But we would always get together on Sunday to
have a Sunday lunch which is very important I feel. It is something
which we should do more. Families should get together more and
eat together to spend some good time around. So this was a very
precious time, mealtime with family.
Olivier Bourseau: The
training you have done as a “commis de cuisine”
(French chef apprenticeship) has got a reputation for being
very tough and nearly military in style so you have to have
great discipline. How tough was it for you and how do you see
it today?
Michel Roux Jr:
I moved straight into the kitchen to Alain Chapel in Mionnay
(Rhône region in France), and he ran a very tight kitchen.
Hardly were we allowed to speak, it was much disciplined, which
is good. It is a good foundation, good grounding, because you
need a certain amount of discipline, and self discipline as
well which is very important. That’s certainly helped
me through the rest of my career.
Olivier Bourseau: You
mentioned in your biography that one of the biggest influences
on your cooking style was Alain Chapel at Mionnay. Why was that?
Michel Roux Jr:
The use of the best ingredients possible, very seasonal, and
he was innovative, without loosing his roots and loosing his
French gastronomy style, the true French gastronomy. So there
were no gimmicks, very true flavours, which is something I have
always tried to aspire to.
Olivier Bourseau: You
also worked as a “commis de cuisine” at the French
presidential palace under Giscard D’estaing and Francois
Mitterand. Which memories do you keep from this experience and
what were the favourite food for Giscard d’Estaing and
Mitterand?
Michel Roux Jr:
I saw very little of Giscard. I saw the last month of Giscard
at the French presidential palace. It was party time, which
was great because I wouldn’t say that he abused the system
but he knew that he was leaving so he was enjoying himself during
his last moments at the “Palais”. He was most definitely
a fine gourmet, and appreciated the best food, likewise Mitterand.
Mitterand was somebody who enjoyed the best of life and I had
a wonderful time cooking there because I saw things that I hadn’t
seen before like kilos and kilos of truffles, and Foie Gras,
and lobster, and caviar… So it really was a fantastic
moment for me. Memories I could tell you? (He
pauses and is thinking) I have some funny anecdotes:
For example Giscard would phone down to the kitchen on a Sunday
evening and ask for 24 oysters! Where do you go in Paris to
get the best oysters for the president at 9 o’clock in
the evening? We didn’t have any in the fridge so we had
to run out and go to the best Brasserie on the Champs Elysees
and buy 24 oysters. You don’t say no! You just go and
do it! They are some wonderful memories.
Olivier Bourseau: You
have worked your way very hard through the different steps to
become a Chef, working in various restaurants and climbing the
ladder from “commis”, to “sous-chefs”
and Chef to finally Chef and Head Chef at le Gavroche in 1991.
Has your aim been to go back to the family business always and
take over so that you can perpetuate the family tradition?
Michel Roux Jr:
It certainly wasn’t an aim when I started off as a young
apprentice and “commis”. But the more I grew into
it…. Obviously it is something very sacred. Le Gavroche
is something very sacred and very special, and it is a great
honour for me to carry it on.
Olivier Bourseau: Le Gavroche
is seen as a prestigious restaurant serving traditional /classical
French cuisine with a slightly modern twist. Would you agree
with that statement and how do you see the recent trend of nearly
scientific or molecular cuisine being done by chefs like Ferran
Adria (El Bulli), Marc Veyrat, Heston Blumenthal (Fat Duck)
where they use a nearly scientific approach to food and taste?
Michel Roux Jr:
I think it is interesting and the ones you mentioned are geniuses
but there is only a certain amount of geniuses on this planet.
I think, and I am pretty sure, and Le Gavroche is testimony
to this fact that people don’t want to eat that style
of food all the time. They would far rather eat Le Gavroche
style of food which is comfort food, and true gastronomy. There
can be nothing better in my view than a perfect piece of beef
or chicken or whatever, the perfect ingredient for example cooked
properly without any gimmicks to it without any additives, without
any of that molecular gastronomy style. It has to be in my view
the way forward and I think people are coming back to that.
Olivier Bourseau: How
do you get inspiration to create your new dishes?
Michel Roux Jr:
I get inspiration from the seasons, inspiration from books,
and eating out! I eat out a lot all over the world.
Olivier Bourseau: Apart
from food, le Gavroche is recognised as having an exceptional
wine list, if not the best in London. How important is wine
to you and what are your 3 favorite styles of wine or regions?
Michel Roux Jr:
It is vitally important as an experience when you eat. And not
necessarily in a restaurant but I think that wine should be
involved in any meal. Wine can act as a seasoning almost to
the food, it can enhance the food and it works both ways obviously
but I think that it’s an integral part. I think chefs
should learn more about wine. Very often they would design menus
without taking into consideration the wines. If you look for
example at the molecular gastronomy, in my point of view the
molecular gastronomy does nothing for wines and you can not
match good wines with that style of food. And regarding my personal
taste, it is very varied. At Le Gavroche the wine List is obviously
predominantly French because it is a French restaurant but I
do enjoy New World wines. I have just come back from South Africa,
and tasted some fabulous wines there. Vin de Constance (sweet
wine) was one of them. Lowell Jooste is the owner of the Estate
Klein Constantia. He is also making a superb red wine called
Anwilka (Michel is talking about a
new Gem wine which is the result of a joint venture between
Bruno Prats, former owner of Château Cos-d'Estournel,
Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, co-proprietor of Château
Angélus in Bordeaux, and Lowell Jooste of Klein Constantia.
It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 63% and Shiraz 37%).
That’s one particular wine that we will be listing here
as well. So I enjoy tasting wines, I enjoy finding gems like
this for example to put onto our wine list.
Olivier Bourseau: You
are a great runner, have run marathons many times, how do you
combine your busy work life with this passion and how sport
impact your cooking?
Michel Roux Jr: I think sport is very important
for life in general. Not just for chefs although saying that
it certainly helped me to unwind. It’s a great stress
buster! You can go out in the afternoon and run for an hour
and come back and my problems are solved and you feel a lot
better for it physically and mentally. So that’s the main
reason. It hasn’t changed my style of cooking because
I have always been sort of modern classic so less cream, less
butter, not as heavy. So I wouldn’t say it has affected
my style of cooking.
Olivier Bourseau: Do
you cook much at home and how do you approach food with your
family?
Michel Roux Jr: Food
with my family has always been very straightforward: the best
ingredients cooked in the simplest way. Sometimes the mistake
that people do at home is to try to overcomplicate things.
Olivier Bourseau: Finally
you have contributed to many TV programs about food and are
seen as a very important and respected chef in this country.
Do you consider yourself a celebrity chef or not?
Michel Roux Jr:
No, I do not consider myself a celebrity chef! I consider myself
a chef although I suppose I am well known. But not as well known
as the celebrity chefs….
Olivier Bourseau: Michel,
thank you very much for your time!
|