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If
it is true that the place where the wine is made is
as important as the man making the wine, most people
will not remember the man making their favourite wine
and this is a shame. There are no exceptional wines
without exceptional winemakers. Take for example John
Duval. He was Chief winemaker for Penfolds, making
the most famous Australian wine "Penfolds Grange"
from 1986 until 2002.
After
leaving Penfolds he consulted for different wineries
across the globe and in addition decided to set up
on his own in 2003 and launched 2 fantastic wines
Plexus and Entity under John Duval Wines, his own
brand. We met John at a wine tasting in London at
the end of January and he was kind enough to take
some time with us and share his inestimable experience.

Olivier
Bourseau:John
Duval, thank you very much for giving us a few minutes
for this interview. You are a very famous name in
the world of winemaking having done an incredible
career in winemaking. I am sure you must have passion
to be as successful as you have been. When did this
passion for wine start?
John
Duval: I can remember when I was growing
up with my family we always had wine at the table
and my family were grape growers south of Adelaide
a place called Morphett Vale. They were farmers as
well and my grandfather on my mother’s side
worked for a winery. So I studied Agriculture Science
at university and met many people working at the Australian
Wine Research Institute as well. I knew a little bit
about wine and grape growing and was excited about
wine as a possible career, so I did winemaking studies
at Roseworthy College, and then started to work for
Penfolds.
Olivier Bourseau:
You worked previously at Penfolds as Chief Winemaker
(appointed in 1986) making some of the most exciting
wines in this world with Penfolds Grange being the
most famous Australian Shiraz. You decided to set
up on your own in 2003 and are already making wines
attracting great awards. What does it take to be a
good winemaker in your opinion?
John
Duval: I think obviously winemaking
is a blend of the art and craft, which means I think
you have to have an understanding or a feeling for
wine; but it also involves science as well, and I
think it’s knowing when and how science can
work for you is important. I think there are probably
3 or 4 factors all involved here but at the end of
the day, there is no substitute for experience.
Olivier
Bourseau: Your 2 wines Entity and Plexus
have got a majority of Shiraz in them. And you obviously
know this grape very well from your work at Penfolds
before. Why sticking to this grape and not doing something
else when you launched on your own?
John
Duval: People know me from Penfolds,
which is based in Barossa Valley. I have lived there
for over 30 years. So I just wanted to keep my business
focused. And the focus really was on Barossa Valley,
red wine, Shiraz and Shiraz blends. Stick to what
you know best!
Olivier
Bourseau: How would you say the Shiraz wines
you make as a single grape and in blend compares to
the Old world style found in France in the Rhône
valley?
John
Duval: I would never forget doing a
famous tasting in Guild Hall, London, in 1990 with
Gerard Jaboulet. We tasted Penfolds Grange and Hermitage
La Chapelle. It was a fabulous tasting and we received
a standing ovation. I think it was the first public
tasting for the Institute of Masters of Wine. At the
end of the tasting Gerard and I turned to each other
and shook each other’s hand and said there was
no winner, just Shiraz and Syrah because the wines
were totally different. They came from different soils,
different climates, different winemaking techniques
and the wines had a different expression of the variety;
and that’s a great thing about wine!
Olivier
Bourseau: There are some crucial parts in
the winemaking such as the picking time, the fermentation
time and the maturation time. How do you decide on
these and is it all experience and depending on the
vintage?
John
Duval: I think it is depending on the
vintage, but experience teaches you how to react to
the different vintages. I also think that winemaking
has changed a lot over the years. Years ago the winemaking
job started when the grapes came to the winery; and
now the winemaking starts in the vineyard. So we spend
a lot of time in the vineyard watching for flavour
ripeness, and even before that, just growing the grapes.
We also look for the right development of the vine,
the maturation of the tannins.
Olivier
Bourseau: Currently there is a big debate
about Terroir or the place where the wine is made
being as important or more important than the man
making the wine. You have not only worked in Australia
but also consulted for many wineries around the world.
What is in your opinion the most important, the place
where the wine is made or the winemaker?
John
Duval: It is a combination of both.
I am involved in several joint ventures. With the
winery Ventisquero I make Syrah in the Colchagua Valley
in Chile. I also make Syrah as part of a joint venture
with Long Shadows in Washington State, and of course
I have my own project in the Barossa Valley. The 3
regions are completely different, and I don’t
take a recipe from the Barossa Valley to Chile or
to Washington. I like to have a more elegant expression
of the variety, so the idea is obviously to let the
site and the soils express themselves through the
wine. But where the man comes in, is making the wine
in an elegant fashion and not letting the alcohol
get too high or the wine dominated too much by oak.
The idea is to let the fruit express itself.
Olivier
Bourseau: Apart from your wines, which are
the 2 or 3 wines or types of wines you really enjoy
drinking and what do you think about the Old World
wines?
John
Duval: I have pretty eclectic taste.
Because I am involved in ventures in Chile and the
States, I drink a lot of wines from those parts of
the world, to keep up to date, but I also enjoy the
wines of the Rhône. And because I make a Shiraz-Grenache-Mourvedre
blend myself in the Barossa, it is nice to see the
interpretation of those varieties in other part of
the world, particularly France and Spain.
Olivier
Bourseau: Thank you very much John!
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