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I had the
opportunity to meet with Claude Bosi, Chef proprietor
of Hibiscus
restaurant in London recently. Hibiscus had been
awarded two Michelin stars in Ludlow, Shropshire before
being relocated in the capital at the end of last
year and didn’t disappoint either: one Michelin
Star after a few months of opening only, and an expected
rating of two stars from the famous guide.
Claude
Bosi combines strong French cooking foundations with
a personal and innovative touch. In our interview,
Claude told us about his style of cooking, his influences
and a little bit of his secret too…

Olivier
Bourseau: You have trained and worked with
some of the best French chefs such as Alain Passard,
Alain Ducasse, Jean-Paul Lacombe or even Patrick Henriroux
at La Pyramide. Who was the most inspirational for
you if there was one and why?
Claude Bosi:
Yes I have one main inspirational chef who really
taught me and if I am where I am at the moment it
is thanks to this guy who really opened my eyes. But
the 4 names you just mentioned are 4 so different
chefs. Jean-Paul Lacombe (from the two Michelin Stars
restaurant “Léon de Lyon” in Lyon-France)
where I did my “apprentissage” (French
cooking apprenticeship) had a strong Lyon-based cooking
culture. There was no fuss about it, you had to cook
dishes such as “Gratin de Gras-Double”
(very traditional dish from Lyon) and that was it!
He was very traditional. At La Pyramide it was different.
There were many classic dishes from Fernand Point
(the legendary chef who made the name and fame of
La Pyramide restaurant in Vienne, now run by Patrick
Henriroux with 2 Michelin Stars), such as the “Gratin
d’Ecrevisse” the “Poulet Demi d’Oeil”.
After Alain Ducasse (the world famous French chef
with his 2 main restaurants in Paris at the Plaza
Athenee Hotel and Louis XV in Monaco both 3 Michelin
Stars amongst many other restaurants he runs under
his name across the world) was all about consistency
on the quality of the products you use and the Ducasse
school is very machine-like, you are a little bit
like a robot. Then finally Alain Passard taught me
the essence of what I do now. Alain Passard (Chef
who runs the 3 Michelin Stars restaurant L’Arpège
in Paris) is a cook, not a chef but a cook or what
you call a “cuisinier” in French. He has
a lot of respect for the ingredients, and let the
product or ingredient talk for itself. And when you
understand this you can do anything. He was my main
influence.
Olivier
Bourseau: There seem to be a lot of innovation
in your cooking with exciting texture like your Passion
fruit Gel in your Millefeuille, or using ingredients
in uncommon contexts like the Iced Brown Bread Parfait.
How do you get your inspiration in creating such dishes
and for your cooking in general?
Claude Bosi:
Yes we were talking about the French foundations I
have and if we relate this to the Iced Brown Bread
parfait, you have in this country the brown bread
ice cream which is really classic. So from this you
adapt it by making it a bit lighter, a bit more modern
too. I think nobody invents anything. I read a lot
of cookery books where it is there in black and white.
You then have to trim it to make sure you get the
right thing. With regards to the passion gel with
the Millefeuille: the millefeuille is made with coffee
and caramel and is quite rich, so you need to balance
the dish with something quite sharp, and this is where
the passion fruit came from. You have to have some
balance in the plate. The way we describe the food
here is if you eat maybe one element of the dish on
its own, you might not like it, but if you eat everything
together, it works and this is how I build the plate.
It is a matter of combination.
Olivier
Bourseau: You came to the UK in 1997 with
the view to set up your own restaurant. Why deciding
on the UK and not France?
Claude Bosi:
When I came in 1997, it was for 6 months only! I finished
in Paris, and I had had enough and wanted to travel
a bit and went to a recruitment agency. I told them
I wanted to go to England not London and found this
opportunity in Ludlow. And after a while the owner
of the place offered me the opportunity to become
head chef and I agreed and took the kitchen in February
1998. We then got one Michelin Star in 1999. So I
thought maybe “we are doing something right
here so we might be staying a bit longer”. I
stayed for about 2 years and met my wife at the time
Claire and I thought maybe it was the time to do our
own thing. From then we looked around for a place
but it was difficult. We were 2 young people of 24/25
years old and when you go and see the bank and say
“ I need £100,000” they look at
you and they say “ we will give half of what
you have”. I said “thank you”, but
we didn’t have that much at all. We managed
to find a small restaurant in Ludlow though, the same
kind of place like the one where I was working before
for £40,000 so we bought it. And we started
Hibiscus in May 2000.
Olivier
Bourseau: In terms of your wine list, it
is a combination of Old and New world. How do you
work with your sommelier?
Claude Bosi:
Being a French restaurant, Wine is part of the tradition.
We have to have some good wines. I am from Lyon so
the whole Rhône Valley and even Burgundy are
my favourite regions. For our wine list Simon Freeman
is the person in charge. He makes me try some wines
and he has been working with me for three and a half
years. He doesn’t have an easy job, because
of the combinations of different flavours we do. When
I show him the new menu he starts to shake his head
and asking questions “what am I going to put
with this?” But he has been doing great.
Olivier
Bourseau: You are from Lyon originally and
you mentioned the Rhône Valley and Burgundy
before being your favourite. Apart from these, which
other wine regions in the world do you find interesting?
Claude Bosi:
I like Chile, and Portuguese wines too which are completely
different than the Rhône Valley for instance.
Yes that is it. Of course there are other areas such
as California and Australia too, but I really like
Portuguese wines, they are very nice!
Olivier
Bourseau: Thank you very much Claude! |