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What I found
very refreshing when I met Hugues Lepin, was that
he seemed focused on clients before everything and
appeared very open minded.
He
told me that you had to have a good understanding
of the customer first in order to be a good sommelier.
And this is great because thanks to Hugues and other
sommeliers of his generation, the era of the old posh
and arrogant sommelier is over. Yes, you can have
a chat with Hugues no matter what your wine knowledge
is, and yes you can learn and bit more about wine
with him without the impression that you require a
degree first.
Picture
below: Hugues Lepin at the "Table Lumiere"
- Alain Ducasse Restaurant - Dorchester

Hugues
very kindly took the time for our interview run at
the “Table Lumiere” of the restaurant.
I must say that the Table Lumiere, almost completely
surrounded by a lightened curtain is truly magnificent.
Picture
below: Private dining room - Alain Ducasse Restaurant
- Dorchester
Olivier
Bourseau: Hugues Lepin, you are the Head
Sommelier at Alain Ducasse restaurant at the Dorchester.
You worked previously at Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant
at the Claridges. Please could you tell us a bit more
about your background in the industry?
Hugues Lepin:
I arrived in London 5 years ago and
started working at the Bleeding Heart as sommelier.
I then moved to the Louis XV, Alain Ducasse's 3-Michelin-star
restaurant in Monaco. I have worked there for about
1 year, alongside Head chef sommelier Noel Bajor and
that's also where I have developed my passion for
wine and wine service in gastronomic restaurants.
I then joined for one season the team at the Bar &
Boeuf, Alain Ducasse's seasonal one-Michelin-star
restaurant in Monaco, before coming back to London
in September 2006 as chef sommelier at Gordon Ramsay
at Claridge’s. When the Groupe Alain Ducasse
announced its plan to open a new gastronomic restaurant
in London, I was very keen to be part of this exciting
experience and joined as Head sommelier. Alain Ducasse
at The Dorchester opened in last November and I have
since then very much enjoyed the opportunity to work
with the Alain Ducasse team.
Olivier
Bourseau: Have you always thought you would
work as a sommelier and when did the passion for wine
start?
Hugues Lepin:
I have always loved food and wine but never thought
that I would one day become a sommelier. My passion
for wines only became obvious to me whilst working
at the Bleeding Heart in London and the Louis XV in
Monaco. More specifically, I learned what being a
sommelier is all about during my time at the Louis
XV, meaning attention to details, passion for wine,
knowledge, and continuous learning experience.
Picture below: The
"Table Lumiere" - Alain Ducasse Restaurant
- Dorchester
Olivier
Bourseau: What in your opinion makes a good
sommelier?
Hugues Lepin:
Knowledge combined with an excellent understanting
of the customer's needs and wishes. A sommelier should
always keep in mind that wine is a passion to be shared
with the customer, and always try and put himself
at the level of his customers. A good sommelier should
never patronlise its customer!
Furthermore, a good sommelier should always question
him and remain open to all what is happening in the
wine industry. A sommelier can never pretend to know
everything; the wine industry keeps evolving together
with the vintages and even the daily weather! A good
sommelier can only endeavour to know as much as possible...
that's one of most intrinsic challenges that our job
entails!
To conclude I would also say that a sommelier should
great communication skills - not only towards his
clients, but also towards his suppliers, wine producers,
its sommelier counterparts, and its team. Being a
Head Sommelier is about managing: it requires strong
management and organisation skills
Picture below: The
Cellar - Alain Ducasse Restaurant - Dorchester
Olivier
Bourseau: Sommelier is quite a demanding
job as you have to be on your feet most of the day,
and after the service time, you have to take care
of the logistics too. Could you tell us about a normal
day at work?
Hugues Lepin:
I come early in the morning to process all the orders
and amend the wine list as required. I usually enter
the restaurant around 10.30am to help my team doing
what is called "the mise en place” and
to check that each and every detail in the restaurant
room and our cellar is in accordance with the restaurant's
standards. Then, I focus on the two services, lunch
and dinner. During the afternoon, I’m back in
the office to check my emails and finalise office
work.
Once a week, I try to organise a tasting with the
team, to talk about wine in general and the specific
wine we taste.
Picture below: Main
dining room - Alain Ducasse Restaurant - Dorchester
Olivier
Bourseau: How was the wine list put together
at Alain Ducasse restaurant at the Dorchester and
how closely do you work with food?
Hugues Lepin:
Our wine list is the result of a team effort. I and
Gérard Margeon, Wine Director at the Alain
Ducasse Group, first put the wine list together. We
then had to work closely with the Chef to agree on
the best food / wine pairing arrangements for all
the items on the menu. This has been a very enjoyable
experience that included food tastings as well as
a series of seriously interesting talks with the knowledge
of Gerard Margeon about the characteristics of each
meal and wine.
Picture below: Hugues
Lepin checking on his wine list at the "Table
Lumiere" - Alain Ducasse Restaurant - Dorchester
Olivier
Bourseau: What is your favourite wine region
or type of wine, and the one which you would like
to have more on your wine list?
Hugues Lepin:
I am very fond of Burgundy wines in general and this
region is already well developed on the wine list
of Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. However, there
is no one wine that we would like to have more on
our wine list. As I said earlier, the wine industry
is in constant evolution and so is our wine list supposed
to be. Therefore, Gérard Margeon and I are
in constant search for interesting wines...
Olivier
Bourseau: Thank you very much Hugues!
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