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I could not find other words
than “Rising Star” to describe Chef Frédéric
Simonin. He is about 32 years old and has already
earned Michelin Stars in different restaurants in
France (his first Michelin Star at Restaurant Guislaine
Arabian before getting 2 Michelin stars when he ran
the kitchens at “La Table de Joël Robuchon”
in Paris in 2006). He more recently moved to London
to run “L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon”
which was recently awarded one Michelin Star and is
about a year old only!
Below
Frédéric Simonin right,
with Olivier Limousin left

I
found Frédéric very approachable, and
very humble with a team spirit attitude as he welcomed
me at “L’Atelier” with his assistant
Chef Olivier Limousin for this interview. Watch this
space!
Olivier
Bourseau: Good morning Frederic and Thank
you very much for having us at “L’Atelier
de Joël Robuchon”. You originate from Paris
and have started your career as a chef apprentice
or “commis” in some of the greatest French
restaurant in Paris like “Ledoyen”, “Meurice”
and “Taillevent”. Who has been your biggest
influence in your career?
Frédéric
Simonin: There hasn’t been one
major influence. I would like to mention the first
restaurant where I trained as a commis: “Le
Pavillon Ledoyen”. I was just out of the the
apprenticeship school in Brittany and this was a positive
shock to me because “Ledoyen” was in Paris
and it was the capital of French gastronomy without
being pretentious about it and where everything was
far more fastidious from what I had learned so far.
They had 2 Michelin Stars and they were at their peak
in the 90’s when I worked there and it was very
difficult. All the chefs, or commis working at Ledoyen
needed to be passionate to stay there. But as I said
I do not have a specific influence. I have wanted
to work at big names restaurants and hotels because
my view is that it was the best for training.
Below "L'Atelier"

Olivier
Bourseau: Where/when has this passion for
food started and what do you think is the most important
thing required to make a good chef?
Frédéric
Simonin: This passion for food
really happened by chance. I could also say, as many
chefs usually say that our grandmother or mother used
to cook great things for us, but which mother or grandmother
didn’t cook for her children? So yes I have
always eaten very well when I was a kid. But I wasn’t
especially enthusiastic about food actually and it
all happened by chance really! I think to make a good
chef you have to have passion about food. That’s
it. This is the most important thing.
Below Chefs Olivier
Limousin (left) and Frédéric
Simonin (right) at "L'Atelier"

Olivier
Bourseau: In terms of your style of cooking,
are you someone cooking with traditions or are you
looking for modernism in your cooking?
Frédéric
Simonin: My cooking style is really
a consequence of the training I had in France (Ledoyen,
Meurice, Taillevent) and my experience from the more
recent times. I believe you have to work properly
and domesticate the ingredients without going overboard.
I wouldn’t say I have a traditional style because
it would sound very old and ancestral, but I do not
have a fusion or very modern cooking style either.
I cook with the current times and adapt myself.
"Below another
picture at L'Atelier"

Olivier Bourseau:
What do you think about the nearly scientific
approach some chefs like Ferran Adrià, Heston
Blumenthal, Marc Veyrat or Arzac use?
Frédéric
Simonin: I think it is very good and
they have their own style of cooking and their technique.
I would not be able to master what they do because
I am not very interested in this style of cooking,
but we need these great chefs to make cooking evolve.
I know Ferran Adrià a little bit. We had the
opportunity to meet him in his restaurant (El Bulli
in Catalunya, Spain) once I went to have dinner there
and another time when he came as a client in our restaurant
in the 16th Arrondissement of Paris (Table de Joël
Robuchon). I respect this style of cooking and don’t
have much more to say about it!
Olivier
Bourseau: You run the kitchens at “l’Atelier
de Joël Robuchon” in London, what is the
food like here and how is it different to the other
French restaurants in London?
Frédéric
Simonin: This restaurant includes three
different places in one building for our clients.
We have the “Atelier”, with kitchen run
by Olivier Limousin who was my assistant chef at La
Table de Joel Robuchon in the 16th Arondissement of
Paris where we got 2 Michelin Stars. Then you have
the “Cuisine” upstairs which is run by
myself and is different from the “Atelier”
where people sit at tables and you have the feeling
to be in the kitchen of a restaurant with the chefs.
The format is more like a normal restaurant and the
meals usually takes longer than at the Atelier. The
Atelier concept is found in some of the greatest capitals
of the world (Paris, New York, Las Vegas, Tokyo, Hong
Kong) and people eat around a bar or counter. The
idea is that they can eat rather quickly and very
well with small and exquisite dishes at different
prices. So there is definitely a sense of freedom
where it is not like in a traditional restaurant where
you seat down with a group of people, and you get
a normal menu with a starter, a main and a dessert.
At “L’Atelier” you can eat a very
good dish with a glass of wine in 20 minutes at all
prices, and then leave. It is a new concept which
works very well and our clients are delighted with
it. And then we have the bar upstairs which is cosy
and attractive where clients usually have a drink
before dinner.
Below "La Cuisine"

Olivier
Bourseau: How wine impacts your cooking at
“L’Atelier”?
Frédéric
Simonin: There is a dialogue between
the sommelier and the chef, where it is very important
to have a tight relationship and to listen to each
other and exchange information. We then take into
consideration the ideas of pairings from the sommelier
(what he thinks would work the best with one wine),
and the chef ideas as well. It is important not to
look at it from one side only and try and find the
right wine for the food or the other way round. It
has to come from both sides. It is a difficult thing
to work on, a kind of philosophy of thinking which
best dishes or ingredients would work with the best
wines and the other way round as well and to combine
both.
Olivier
Bourseau: Working for one of the greatest
French chefs is probably very exciting, but are you
thinking about opening your own restaurant one day?
Frédéric
Simonin: I don’t know, for the
time being it is not really my goal. I would like
to continue working with Joël Robuchon for now.
I am very happy to work for him. He is a living myth
to me! We also work as a team here and Olivier Limousin
is a colleague but also one of my best friends.
Below
another picture of "La Cuisine"

Olivier
Bourseau: Finally which are the ingredients
you prefer to cook if any/ any special dishes and
what would be the favourite wine to pair this dish
with?
Frédéric
Simonin: There are many great wines
but when it comes to matching them with fine food
it is another story. A very good wine to me would
be Forts de Latour 1975, which is the year I was born
or Château d’Yquem. There are also smaller
producers which make less famous but very exquisite
wines and we should not forget them. There are many
young vineyards producing excellent wines and not
expensive at all and it is important to promote these
wines along with the bigger names. In terms of ingredients
and any special dishes, I like everything, I have
always liked any ingredient and so there is not one
ingredient which I prefer cooking against others.
If it was the case, it would mean that I neglect the
other ingredients which are not my favourites and
this is not what I do.
Olivier
Bourseau: Thank you very much Frédéric!
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