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Marcus
Wareing is one of the UK most respected and successful
chefs. He got his second Michelin Star at Petrus in
2007 and has very recently re-opened
his restaurant under his own name ending the partnership
he had with Gordon Ramsay.
I
had the pleasure to meet with him at his newly decorated
restaurant at the Berkeley Hotel early November. Marcus
came across as someone who is very focused on providing
the perfect meal to his clients, and he told us why
this is the recipe for success. Marcus also gave us
useful cooking tips, and starts this interview on
his background and his style of cooking.
Picture
below - Marcus Wareing in his kitchen - Marcus Wareing
at the Berkeley

Olivier
Bourseau: Good morning Marcus and thank you
for your time. My first question is about your background.
After doing a 3 year catering course at Southport
college, you have worked in prestigious restaurants
such as the Savoy where you started your professional
career, but also at Le Gavroche with Albert Roux,
with Gordon Ramsay through your partnership at Aubergine
, L’Oranger and finally Petrus, but also with
Guy Savoy in Paris. Who has been your biggest influence
and why?
Marcus
Wareing:
It is quite difficult to identify one person because
for me, they all play a role. I mean in theory, I
should really say Gordon (Ramsay) on the grounds that
I spent the most time with him over the years but
I think all of those chefs played a part in my future.
They all meant a lot to me and I think these chefs
are big names and big mentors to have especially Albert
(Roux) because of what he has done here in London
and how long he has been here. I spent over a year
working for him but it was the relationship which
carries on beyond that makes it different.
Olivier
Bourseau: How would you describe your personal
style of cooking?
Marcus
Wareing: As a head chef you create and write
menus that are things you have done over the last
15 or 20 years training, you start to put a little
bit of that together. This is how you write your first
menus . I remember I liked that dish or I liked that
ingredient… And then as time goes on you evolve
and it takes years to grow your individual style and
palate. I think the recognition of that is when you
are going through the Michelin ladder of one star,
two stars, 3 stars. I think once you get into the
2 stars going on to 3, you start to identify you own
identity. The cuisine is very much a classic French
cookery with my own personal twist into it and obviously
my own personal flavours, my palate and not only that,
I also think that the seasonality of the food too.
The food is moving forward each day.
Olivier
Bourseau: I see chefs like artists constantly
inventing new recipes. How do you get your inspiration
from to create new dishes away from seasons?
Marcus
Wareing: First
of all I don’t invent dishes, because mother
nature provides me with the seasonal ladder and I
think the food is naturally brilliant, It is perfect
in its own way. My job is to create flavour combinations,
and how I think food should marry together. I don’t
experiment in the kitchen, I am not a scientist. I
don’t do molecular gastronomy because it is
not my field like I don’t do sushi. It is not
what I do. And I think it’s very important that
the chef can identify what his boundaries are and
what he does in the kitchen. So it is not an experimentation
at all.
Picture
below - Chef's Table at Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley

Olivier
Bourseau: You now work under your own name
at the Berkeley hotel providing one of the most exquisite
food in the UK. Yet this a very tough industry with
restaurants closing down all the time especially in
the current environment. What is in your opinion the
recipe for success in Fine dining?
Marcus
Wareing: I think it is an interesting time
and most importantly you mustn’t take anything
for granted. I think the recipe for success is going
to be to have your team, front and back of the house
to be so aware of the customer and the client, and
making sure that whether you have 15 lunches or 50,
that they are as good as each one or the other, and
that they are as important. I used to remember when
we used to have, in certain restaurants where I worked
in, quiet lunches or quiet dinners where you would
not do many covers. Everybody was messing around,
people were chit chatting in the kitchen, and staff
were bored, and I guarantee that the customer suffers.
And I refuse to watch that happen. We make those 15
or 20 covers as perfect as we possibly can. And it
is about identifying that you must never sit back,
that you must always be driving whether it is 15 or
50, giving it exactly the same approach. And I think
that is how you have to take on fine dining. I think
that is the only way that is going to get you through
this current climate. Then everybody going away and
talking about it and that it was a lovely experience,
is what you expect from your work.
Olivier
Bourseau: How do you work with wines and
are you interested in wine pairing your dishes, or
is wine secondary to food?
Marcus
Wareing: Wine is very important. I think the 3 things
that makes this industry great for me is the food,
the wine and the people you share it with around the
table. I think it is very simple but it is something
which has been in France, Italy, Spain Greece for
years and years and centuries where it is a way of
life, and it has never been like that over here in
the UK. We haven’t got that culture and maybe
one day we may have it, in 100 or 200 or 300 years
from now. I don’t know. But I think that it
is important that the wine cellar has a man running
it that has a passion for what he does. I don’t
get overly involved. I monitor the wine list by value,
by the mark up of the wine, what types of wines we
are selling, what the sommelier likes personally.
Because you find that sometimes sommeliers have their
favourite regions in France or global and they tend
to push certain areas. I want the wine to be a much
wider enjoyment. You can enjoy great wines from Chile
and Argentina and from all over the world as much
as you can enjoy wines from France and Spain and I
think it is nice to see some variety because the restaurant
clientele is cosmopolitan here. They come from all
over the world and you must identify and support wine
from everywhere. I don’t get involved with it
because I trust my sommelier. I am very interested
and when they come to talk to me and show me I like
it. I think it is very important.
Olivier
Bourseau: What is your favourite wine or
wine?
Marcus
Wareing: People often say to me, what is
you favourite food what do you enjoy eating. And I
don’t have a favourite dish, I don’t have
a favourite cuisine. I love eating and I love drinking.
I would say the area that I enjoy at the moment is
Burgundy wine. I just like it because it’s sharper
it is lighter, it seems more feminine than Bordeaux.
Bordeaux seems to be heavy, big, and I am no expert,
and I have not tried a lot of things, but I would
open the wine list and I guarantee I would go to burgundy
first for red and white. And I don’t know why.
I go through periods and I would have probably drunk
enough burgundy one day and I will move to something
else. But I also quite like when you go to a restaurant
and the sommelier wants you to try something new.
I like that. The sommelier says you know this is what
you like but I know I have got something really nice
over here. “Would you like to try that?”
I love that, it is really nice.
Olivier Bourseau:
Finally Marcus, do you still have the strength to
cook when you are at home, and would you have a general
cooking tip for non cooks like myself?
Marcus
Wareing: Yes I do have the strength to cook
at home, I love cookery! I have 3 young kids and it
is important for me that when I am there that I share
the cooking with my wife. You know I do it quicker
than she can, I can utilize ingredients in the fridge
at home and I can create a dinner from nothing and
my wife can’t do that. It is just a case of
making life work at home but I think it is important
that the children have a good flavour of how I cook
because they eat food all day that they have at school
and that their mum would cook. But I can see that
to be bland because they don’t season it the
way I do so it is important for me that my children
do taste food that is cooked my way so that whenever
they do go to a restaurant they have their palate
that understands the difference between home cookery
and out cookery.
For
people that are non cooks: keep it simple! Buy great
ingredients. Don’t worry if the asparagus is
expensive, or the strawberries or the meat, sausages,
it is worth it because you don’t need to do
much with it at all. Keep it nice and simple or creative
by using things that you would not use maybe like
a pumpkin or a squash. How many people buy asparagus
these days? And just keep it simple. And enjoy it.
Have a glass of wine while you are doing it, it helps!
Olivier
Bourseau: Thank you very much Marcus!
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