|
Everyone talks
about Texture
Restaurant! I was therefore very excited to meet
with Xavier Rousset, co-founder. At Texture wine is
as important as food Xavier told me. Not surprisingly,
the other founder is chef Agnar Sverrisson whom Rousset
met while working previously at Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.
But who is Xavier Rousset? He is a very successful
sommelier with experience in French institutions such
as Laurent in Paris, was Ruinart UK Sommelier of the
year in 2002, and is a very welcoming man whom I met
on the first week of October.

Olivier
Bourseau: Xavier Rousset, thank you very
much for having us at your newly opened Texture Restaurant.
You used to work at Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons
which you joined in 2004 as Chef Sommelier until you
decided to go your own way. Prior to this you worked
in Michelin Starred restaurants in France chez Laurent
in Paris or Villa Belrose in St Tropez. Why/How did
you decide to take the risk of setting up this restaurant
with Agnar Sverrisson instead of continuing your carreer
as an employee?
Xavier Rousset:
I think everybody wants to be his or her own boss
one day. The Restaurant trade is one of these industries,
like being a baker, where you want to do your own
thing. So you try with different people and you get
to know the strengths and you try and pick as much
as possible from your previous experiences and then
you do your own thing. I think that is a goal that
everyone is looking to achieve at some stage.
Olivier
Bourseau: What is the most difficult thing
to do when you open a restaurant in London and what
is the easiest?
Xavier Rousset:
I don’t know about the easiest (he laughs!)
But the hard part is to find the location, to train
the staff, find some good staff, and then make sure
the customer comes, and comes once but also comes
back. And we have had already quite a few clients
who came back twice or three times so to us that is
the best. It means that you are good when people want
to come back. Because in London when you are new and
fashionable, everybody will come and see you once
but then it might just be it. So after six months
you close!
Pictures below:
Texture Restaurant and Champagne Bar
  
Olivier
Bourseau: When did your passion for wine
start and who was your biggest influence in your carreer
so far?
Xavier Rousset:
There was always a bottle on the table at home! But
I am the only one in the wine industry in my family.
I spent most of my holidays in the wineries and also
visiting cheese makers. It has always been about food
and wine since I was 13 or 14 years old!
And my biggest influence is probably Gerard Basset
(founder of Hotel du Vin) who is a sommelier
in the UK as well. I worked for him for about 6 years.
He trained me and was my mentor.
Olivier Bourseau:
Texture offers lots of food and wine combinations.
Is wine more of less important than food in your restaurant?
Xavier Rousset:
It is 50/50 at every level from the income to all
the other aspects of the business.
Olivier
Bourseau: What is your dream food and wine
combination or your favourite food and wine combination?
Xavier Rousset:
I have had a great combination with
Roquefort cheese and Pedro Ximenez (sweet sherry
wine) and that is one to remember, as it was
absolutely amazing. I also love Champagne dinners
or lunches where you try a different Champagne wine
with every course. That is beautiful because you feel
so light and Champagne is one of those wine you can
nearly drink as much as you like. So that’s
another one. And if you have the luck to be invited
in the Champagne houses, and have a meal there like
at Krug or Bollinger this is amazing. I had the chance
to go there and have the opportunity to try different
vintages going back to 1973 for instance at Krug's,
which happened to me once. Those are good memories,
very good memories!
Olivier
Bourseau: With regards to wine, Texture is
also a Champagne bar. Apart from the sparkling wines,
what is the wine list like and is it specialised on
some wine regions more than others?
Xavier Rousset:
There are a lot of Rieslings and Pinots Noirs because
these suit the food we do here which is a rather light
food and I love both grape varieties as well! We also
have some Gruner Vetliner (Austrian white grape
variety), so the lighter grapes overall and quite
aromatic as well. Sometimes Viognier can also do but
is not so light. But otherwise it is 40% French and
60% rest of the world. So you get Spain, Italy, Slovakia,
everywhere…. We have a very versatile wine list.
Olivier Bourseau:
I understand you come from Saint Etienne in France.
Are your favourite wines from the Rhône region?
If not what are your favourite wines?
Xavier Rousset:
I like the Rhône and I also like Burgundy. Bordeaux
would come maybe third or fourth. But my top 2 are
Rhône Valley and Burgundy.
Olivier
Bourseau: How important is terroir
to you?
Xavier Rousset:
It is very important but I think winemakers have got
a more and more important role as well in the mix.
Grapes are made in the vineyards and without good
grapes you can not make good wine, but the skill of
the winemaker is also of tremendous importance. And
the best example is Burgundy: Burgundy always claims
to have a very mportant Terroir which is very true
and anywhere else also. But if you take the Premier
Cru Les Charmes within Meursault (a vineyard within
the Appellation Meursault in Côte de Beaune,
Burgundy – This vineyard is owned by different
winemakers) then why is Coche-Dury (one of
the best winemakers in the area, if not the best)
ten times better than the one next door, yet it is
the same Terroir? So the winemakers have a huge impact
on the wines I believe.
Olivier
Bourseau: Which wine producing regions are
you following because they have more potential than
other and offer good value currently?
Xavier Rousset:
Portugal, Greece, and South Africa. But I especially
like the Portuguese red which are great I think and
offering good value at the moment. It might change
and prices have gone up a bit already but they are
very good wines!
Olivier
Bourseau: Thank you very much Xavier!
|