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It
was not some of the best reviews and ratings of the
whole Languedoc area for the wines of the young Domaine
de l’Edre which brought me to visit this wine
estate recently. But it was the passion for wine from
two men who decided to make quality wine as a hobby
on week-ends apart from their main jobs one day!

Apart
from the warm welcome I received from Jacques Castany
the winemaker, I had the opportunity to taste his
wines too. From his standard but fine whites (Carrement
Blanc 2007, 2006) and reds (Carrement Rouges 2007
and 2005) to the premium Edre 2007 still in barrels,
they all displayed very good balance.
Edre
2007 (his top wine) had another 3 month of barrel
maturation to go but was already very drinkable! The
aromatics were profound, with blackberry, liquorice,
floral and stone. Full bodied and seamless with silky
tannins and a 10+ seconds length, it deserves a very
good to excellent rating. Problem is, he made 9 barrels
of Edre 2007 which are already sold and I also understand
the 2008 is already pretty much reserved!
Picture
below - The "basin" like land where most
vineyards around the village of Vingrau are.
Olivier
Bourseau: Jacques thank you for having us
at Domaine de L’Edre. You created Domaine de
L’Edre with your associate Pascal Dieunidou
back in 2002. You have since kept both your jobs in
industries away from wine and work at the wine estate
on week-ends only. What push you to take the leap
and launch this wine estate?
Jacques
Castany: The reason is passion for wine
and vines. My associate Pascal started to taste local
wines when he arrived here back in 2000. I had created
a wine tasting club with relatives back in 1993 and
so we had been tasting wines every month with the
club. Pascal started to really like it and got deep
into the subject and bought some vines and offered
me a partnership to make wine with him in 2002! So
I said let’s go. Being the two of us is always
easier than being on your own especially since it
is not our main job to both of us!
Olivier
Bourseau: You have an exceptional terroir
with some altitude, great exposition to the sun
and great soils too. Please could you tell us a bit
more about the qualities of the area?
Jacques
Castany: In terms of the soils here
in Vingrau, they are mostly made of clayey limestone
with valleys and different expositions which all make
the quality of this specific terroir.
The altitude is also a benefit and grape varieties
find their best locations on the many different slopes
and expositions we have. This is what makes the complexity
and richness of Vingrau. This is why we produce high
quality wines here. And it is not about our estate
and wines, as I believe all the winemakers in Vingrau,
with Clos des Fées, Domaine des Chênes,
Domaine de l’Eléphant, Domaine des Vents
and the Coop to name a few make great wines too. So
I believe there is a big potential here with one of
the best quality in the region.
Picture
below - Yes, this is all of Edre 2007! 9 barrels only...

Olivier
Bourseau: I had been pleasantly surprised
by your tiny yields at about 15hl/h for the Edre wine.
It is very small when you consider that most high
quality wines are between 20 and 50 hl/h. You also
sort the grapes at 3 different places (in the vineyards,
at the egrappoir, and at the conveyor belt). Is that
the recipe for success?
Jacques
Castany: It is a group of things which
makes the ultimate quality. It is not about small
yields only. There is also a lot of work, and more
and more of it done in the vineyards. Now it is also
true that small yields are hugely important in the
quality of the grapes. You were talking about 20 to
50 hl/ha but you don’t get the same wine at
20 than the one you get at 50hl/ha. Grapes ripen easier
with small yields, vines cope better with less fruit
on each vine root, especially when it is a dry year
like the year we are having when we haven’t
had much water. If there is a lot of fruit on the
vine, then the vine needs to feed it!
Olivier
Bourseau: There is a crisis in the region
with wines which don’t sell and some coops and
winemakers not doing much quality wines. Do you think
that quality and small yields is the solution to the
problem and how do you see this issue?
Jacques
Castany:
I don’t know if the solution is to have small
yields because you can make wine with slightly higher
yields but which remain a bargain as offering enough
quality at an affordable price. We can consider pretty
much every situation. Our most interesting example
of success is the coop of Castelmaure just behind
the mountains of Vingrau. They decided to make quality
wines 15 or 20 years ago and where the wage system
for winemakers is different to what is being done
elsewhere in the larger region. And they manage to
make wines at different quality levels from 3 or 4
euros to 50 euros per bottle. They have a wine which
is called “Point d’Interrogation”
(“Question Mark” in English) which is
worth 50 euros. They offer 8 or 9 different wines.
I also believe there is some room for everybody. Problem
is there is no room for bad wine anymore though. It
is tough to say this but it is the truth. Everyone
needs to make some kind of effort and I believe that
across the majority of the region we have wonderful
terroir in order to make good quality.
Olivier
Bourseau: Your main grape varieties are Grenache,
Carignan, and Syrah which are mostly regional varietals.
Have you looked into other grape varieties for the
future?
Jacques
Castany: Already done! We planted some
Mourvèdre to see how it would turn out for
the reds. With regards to whites, we planted some
Roussanne and a little bit of Viognier to also experiment.
What we are trying to do with the whites is to use
a little bit of roussanne to bring some more aromatic
character in our wines.
Olivier
Bourseau: Away from your wines, which are
the other world wine regions which are of interest
for your personal consumption?
Jacques
Castany: As a wine madman, I am interested
in any region in France and across the globe. High
quality wines are made everywhere in the world. In
France everyone has his or her preferred winemakers.
For instance in the Loire Valley, it might be Philippe
Alliet; in the Rhône Valley and considering
our wines here are made from Syrah mostly like in
northern Rhône, I am fond of the Côtes
Rôties and Hermitages. Bordeaux wines can be
very very good when they are well made. I also love
Spanish wines: the reds from Ribera del Duero, or
Priorat are wines which are a lot like ours. Then
there are many smaller “Denominaciones”
(geographical areas) with for instance the Rias Baixas
with Verdejo and Albarino as the main grape varieties.
Alsace for the whites has got a fantastic terroir
and great winemakers like Deiss, Gassman, Ostertag…
There are many of them in Alsace! It is a wonderful
wine region.
Olivier
Bourseau: Thank you very much Jacques!
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