April 2007 Wine Review: A top Italian Chardonnay!

IItaly is more correlated with prestigious full bodied and elegant red wines from Piemonte, Tuscany or Campania, and less so for famous delicate and long aging whites wines. One of the main reason for this is the climate on average too warm compared to Burgundy for instance to deliver good acidity contributing to long aging whites. But we must avoid generalities. And one wine is here to prove generalities do not work in today's wine world: Cervaro della Sala, IGT from Umbria.

Umbria, lying just east of Tuscany has been known for its famous traditional white DOC called Orvietto made from a blend of local grape varieties such as Malvasia, Ugni Blanc, Verdello and Grechetto. But when the Antinori Family, father of such modern red Wine Stars as Solaia and Tignanello amongst others decided to produce a wine made with the imported Chardonnay, they had the vision to produce a top wine and that was 20 years ago! And they have achieved an other gem...

Cervaro della Sala is produced in Umbria which has a similar climate to Tuscany but lacks the maritime influence. I tasted recently the Cervaro della Sala 2005 vintage at a tasting organised by one of my importers.

On the nose this wine struck me with a delicate hawthorn floral character first, so typical of top white Burgundy from the Cote de Beaune. This aroma is sometimes mistaken with almonds but the molecules are very similar so here is why. But there was more: the fruits were lime, pineapple and a nutty aroma as well probably provided by the Grechetto grape variety. The flavours were intense and delicate. There was also a yeasty character and some delicate and well integrated vanilla provided by the time in oak.

On the palate the wine was nearly perfectly balanced with a fresh start demonstrating the good acidity. The Grechetto is typical for high acidity, and the altitude of the vineyard contribute to this thanks to the cool nights. The rich mid palate demonstrated the structure of this wine along with reminding me of the sunny location of the vineyard and the warm summer. The aromas made a come-back with some good ripe lime and exotic fruits and the nutty character lingering in my mouth for about 9 or 10 seconds which is long and put this wine in the top category.

If I had to sum it up, I would say it is like a ripe Burgundy and it can already be drunk now. Could age up to 10 years. I would give it 17 points out of 20.

Full details

Vineyard location: Castello Della Sala Estate stands in the Umbrian Apennines, just 18 km from the historical town of Orvieto. Vineyards are situated between 200 and 400 meters of altitude bringing cool nights and contributing to the good acidity.

Typical climate: Warm summers and mild winters.

Soils: Clayey soil of sedimentary and volcanic origins rich in Pliocene fossils.

Grape Varieties: 85 % Chardonnay and 15% Grechetto.

Vinification: Alcoholic fermentation is done in 100% new French oak and there is a further 5 months aging on the lees in barrels. Then another 10 months aging in bottle before release.

Crimson Aroma does not have any financial agreements with any winemakers or wine brands.

 

Copyright © CrimsonAroma.com 2007. All rights reserved.

www.CrimsonAroma.com